The Importance of Understanding Skin Types, Conditions, and Client Age in PMU

When working with permanent makeup (PMU), understanding different skin types, conditions, and client age is essential. These factors determine the best needles, speed, and PMU styles to use. Although training methods vary, the following techniques have consistently provided great results for my clients. Always strive to learn and experiment to find what works best for you and your clientele.

PMU Recommendations for Different Age Groups

• Clients Aged 35 and Under: Suitable for needles with a 0.35mm diameter (#12), though I prefer long taper needles with a medium diameter of 0.3mm (#10) for better control.
• Clients Aged 35 and Above: Smaller needle diameters (0.30-0.25mm) are preferred, along with pigment dilution for more precise pigment control. This is especially effective for mature skin (50+ years), which requires a gentler approach.

Best Needle Types for PMU Shading

Using needle configurations such as 3rs, 5rs, or 7rs helps build density quickly while minimizing skin trauma. When using smaller diameter needles with a long taper, avoid excessive overlapping. These needles ensure smooth pigment application and reduce damage to the skin.

Microblading: The Natural Look

Microblading is ideal for clients who want a natural, lighter look with less long-term commitment, as it fades faster than other styles.

• Best for: Clients aged 35 and under with dry skin and minimal sun damage or scarring. Not suitable for those using Accutane, tretinoin, retinol, or similar products.

Nano Brows: Precision and Long-Lasting Results

Nano Brows involve using a machine to create ultra-fine, hair-like strokes for precise, natural-looking results. This method often lasts longer than traditional microblading.

• Best for: Various skin types, including slightly oily skin. Ideal for those seeking a realistic effect with increased precision.
• Precaution: Avoid Accutane, tretinoin, or retinol for at least one month before treatment and wait 2-3 months after a touch-up.

Hairstroke Brows: Hyper-Realistic Appearance

Hairstroke Brows use a digital machine to draw hair-like strokes, giving a soft and natural look.

• Best for: Normal to dry skin and clients looking for subtle enhancements.
• Precaution: Clients should discontinue products such as tretinoin and retinol at least one month before treatment and wait 2-3 months post-treatment.

Combo Brows: A Long-Lasting Makeup Look

Combo Brows, combining microblading and powder brows, provide a makeup-like effect with longer-lasting results.

• Best for: Clients under 65, especially those with oily or combination skin, or those with sun-damaged or scarred skin.
• Precaution: Stop using Accutane, tretinoin, or retinol one month before the procedure and avoid the treatment area for 2-3 months post-touch-up (6-8 months for full recovery).

Powder Brows: Versatile and Age-Friendly

Powder Brows suit most ages and skin types and are known for their soft, powdery finish.

• For clients 40 and above: Dilute pigments to build color gently, especially on thinner skin areas like the tails.
• Precaution: Avoid Accutane, tretinoin, or retinol for one month prior and wait 2-3 months after touch-up.

Ombre Brows: The Bold and Long-Lasting Choice

Ombre Brows are suitable for most clients and provide a saturated, dramatic effect that can last for years.

• Precaution: Limit initial thickness and length; less is more for the first session. Ombre brows can develop a cool tone over time, so adding warmth to the pigment helps prevent a blue/ashy appearance.
• Tip: Inform clients that over time, they may need removal if the color shifts and becomes undesirable.